The author, Jon Krakauer, is an accomplished mountaineer who was writing an article about Everest for Outside magazine. His comparison of Everest with other mountain climbs foreshadows the disasters that will occur. Traditionally, climbers who know each other well team up, rope themselves together, and assume responsibility for each other's safety. On Everest, the climbing "team" (each of whom has paid $60-$70,000 to participate) doesn't meet until they arrive in Nepal; all are dependent on the well-paid guide. There is no sense of teamwork. Every person looks out for himself, although the guide will attempt to help each individual reach the summit.
The vivid descriptions of the physical and mental toll that the climb extracts, the effects of high altitude ("thin air") on human judgement, the bitter and extreme cold, and the very real chance of dying on the mountain left us all wondering why in the world anybody would want to climb Everest at all, let alone pay $60,000 for the privilege.
During the spring of 1996, there were many groups of climbers on the mountain. All had purchased permits from the Nepalese government to attempt the summit, but there was no organization beyond what could be negotiated among the groups themselves. Some were very cooperative, making a schedule with allowances for back-up help in case of bad weather; others were anarchistic and promised to do "whatever they damn well pleased." Because of the unpredictable weather, and lack of human judgement at such high altitudes, the better-prepared groups were not necessarily more successful than the ill-prepared ones. The adversities that were encountered brought out the best and the worst in human nature -- the team making the IMAX movie donated all their oxygen tanks to another, but another team refused to let others use their radio even briefly.
The author provides a good history of the climbing of Everest, and gives plenty of credit to the native Sherpas without whom no expedition would succeed. The IMAX movie (currently playing in Detroit) shows off the magnificent scenery, and highlights the solitary nature of the climb. The book is highly recommended --- with the caveat that it is best read in warm weather.